Thursday 13 January 2022

Owning a vacation rental in Panama

 By Jessica Ramesch | gls55 holdings ltd




Like so many others, I grew up thinking of the U.S. as “the” land of opportunity. As if there were only one. After 16 years in Panama, I know better. Panama is clearly a land of opportunity, too. Turns out, it’s one of the best out there. And many ex-pats…from the U.S., Canada, Europe, and beyond…have found it’s easier to live and work in Panama than it was back home.

I’m not just talking about our busy, bustling capital. Adventurous types come here and quickly realize that Panama still has many untapped areas. And for anyone in search of new opportunities, that’s very exciting.

Take Portobelo, for example. It’s located in the Caribbean, which is one of the most desirable regions on the planet. And yet you can live here on a mere fraction of what it would cost in a famous Caribbean destination like The Bahamas. And unlike The Bahamas, Panama is in a hurricane-free zone and boasts a cosmopolitan world capital.

he mix of expats who’ve found their way here—to “land of opportunity” places like Portobelo—is way more diverse than you might imagine. Some came here as boaters, just planning to dock for a spell. The young owners of El Castillo restaurant came for a beach festival.

There are ex-pats (and entrepreneurs) of all ages…from Guyana, Scotland, Thailand…the list is impressive. And the businesses they’ve started here run the gamut. There are bed & breakfasts and pizzerias, but I’ve also seen a dream glamping site, sea cucumber labs, a cobia farm…there are even plans to build seapod apartments here.

Panama welcomes new people and businesses. The home of the Panama Canal, this country is an international hub with incredibly favorable laws. That’s an attractive combo that’s hard to find. There are many warm, beautiful countries that make working or owning property prohibitive for foreigners.

Sure, Panama has a few restrictions. These keep foreigners from doing certain things—like practicing medicine here. But there are still so many options open to potential expats. If you would like to work here as a freelancer or consultant, or open a brick-and-mortar business like a café or school, that’s fine. Be our guest, says Panama.

The country has just unveiled a new extended-stay visa for digital nomad types: The Temporary Telework Visa. It allows you to come down and stay here—not for three months or even six, but for nine months. And you can extend for an additional nine months. That’s a generous total of 18 months, and the main requirements are simple: you must have medical insurance and an external source of income (at least $3,000 a month).

Then there’s the “Foreign Professionals” Visa. This option has been around for over eight years and allows you to work in Panama. Once again, the main requirements are simple: you need a university education and you need to find and hold down a job in Panama.

Of course, Panama is most famous for its Pensionado or Pensioner’s Visa. Many pension holders have moved here, meaning to retire and live the good life. Sip ronconcolas on the beach, that’s what I want to do, they say.

Problem is, they look around—and what do they see? Opportunity. Niches to fill and raw, natural destinations with inexpensive land. And thus, many of them rejoin the working masses, albeit on their own terms….

These days, owning a vacation rental doesn’t mean you’re tied to one place, laundering an endless procession of sheets and towels for new guests. You can block out whatever dates you want. And here, it’s easy to hire a caretaker or management company to do all the work. Go visit family back home, take a cruise, explore Asia. Panama is a major flight hub, and you should definitely take advantage.

There are quite a few more benefits to living and doing business here. If you’re from the States, you don’t have to worry about exchange rates; Panama started using the U.S. dollar as an official currency in 1904. Panama has a large international banking sector and banks here are famously liquid and stable. And then there are the tax laws.

First of all, Panamanian income tax is only due on income earned in Panama. As a freelance writer for an international publication, I pay zero income tax here. I work out of my home and I’m not required to set up any kind of corporation or pay for licenses or certificates…no business fees of any kind.

Though I am not required to declare income, I do, every year. I simply go to the country’s online “Etax” website and list my “foreign sourced income.” I don’t have to pay anything, but I’ve now got enough local income tax declarations to get a substantial home loan here. In fact, I’ve just submitted all the paperwork.

The home I’ve chosen is one of many apartments here with property tax exemptions. I’ll pay less than $25 a year on property tax till 2030 (that’s not a typo). After 2030, property taxes will kick in, but at just 0.5% a year, they won’t make a dent.

My office will be my balcony overlooking the tropical Pacific. The building has a social area where I can work on my laptop or have drinks with my neighbors. There are also two pools, a gym, and a party room. I’ll continue to live on my current budget of around $2,600 a month, including mortgage payments. (And dinners out…one of my favorite places is owned by Italian expats.) In five years, I can sell with no penalty owed to the bank.

I know it all sounds too good to be true. I’ve been here for 16 years and I’m pinching myself. But for me, and for so many others, Panama is “the one”…the perfect land of opportunity.


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Tuesday 1 June 2021

Montpellier: Fine-Living in the Cultural Gem of Southern France

By International Living | gls55 holdings ltd

 



With a booming economy, a dynamic cultural and social scene, and one of the most attractive real estate markets in all of France, Montpellier has solidified its spot as a top retirement destination in Europe. As the fastest growing metropolitan area in France since the 1990s, the city has struck a balance between modernity and livability—with an almost exclusively pedestrian center and multiple public transportation options to suit every lifestyle.

While Montpellier has kept pace with changing times, the real draw of France’s seventh-largest city is its location. Bordered by some of the most well-known beach resorts—La Grau de Roi, La Grande Motte, and Sète—in southern France, the nearest seaside town is about eight miles away. Found along a popular vacation autoroute (freeway) residents can access Italy to the east, and Spain to the west. A road trip to Barcelona takes around three-and-a-half hours or 214 miles.

Given its southern location, Montpellier is favored with a Mediterranean climate and holds the title of one of the sunniest cities in France, averaging over seven hours of sunshine a day (the national average is under five hours).

South-of-France residents are famous for belonging to the French school of “Bon vivant”– connoisseurs of the finer things in life, and Montpellier provides the perfect setting to take advantage of tasteful, French-living. With a plethora of gourmet restaurants, colorful outdoor markets, and year-round cultural events, the city is an excellent choice for retirees looking to live la belle vie (the good life) in France.

Retire in Montpellier, France


As a retiree in Montpellier, you’ll have access to top-notch services in a dynamic, multicultural setting. With numerous metropolitan universities, students make up nearly one-third of the city’s population—with lectures, traveling exhibitions, and cultural symposiums taking place year-round. Several French language schools exist for adult learners, including the Institute Européen de Français, LFS France, and Alliance Française de Montpellier.

Montpellier’s hospital network, the Centre Hospitalier Universitaire (CHU), is made up of six different hospitals, two clinics, and one medical institute. Housing one of the top medical universities in France, the CHU is the city’s number one employer and provides a range of high-quality medical services. Located within the university complex, Clinic Antonin-Balmès specializes in geriatrics and long-term care. Patients can make appointments via the CHU’s website, where departments and practitioners are listed, in English.

Although a large city, by French standards, Montpellier retains a lot of “small town” charm, thanks in part to a lively central district, around Place de la Comédie, and excellent public transportation. The company TAM manages the tramway system, bus lines, and a bike-rental service. With a nod to the environment, residents can use public transport, free of charge, every weekend (available September 2020).

Beyond weekend getaways to sunny Spain, retirees benefit from having an international airport nearby. Located on the outskirts of the city, the Montpellier airport offers direct flights to many European countries (Italy, Spain, Portugal, Holland, and Greece) as well as the U.K. and Morocco. Flights to the U.S. are available as well, with easy connections at Paris Charles De Gaulle airport or through other European cities. 

Lifestyle in Montpellier, France


If you plan to move to the southern France region of Occitanie, where Montpellier is situated, you’ll be headed for an active, out-of-doors lifestyle with a full social calendar of events. In the center of town, you can take advantage of the weekly open-air markets—mingling with neighbors and shopkeepers while filling up your panier (basket) for lunch or dinner or spend the afternoon at an elegant café or restaurant. The food choices in Montpellier rival some of the finest bistros in Paris. Some well-known favorites to try to include Les Gourmands, La Reserve Rimbaud, and Pastis Restaurant – to name only a few.

International dining options exist (Italian, Mexican, Indian, Korean, Japanese, etc.), and several squares in the historic district, surrounding Place de la Comédie, serve as meeting points for happy hours and dinner dates.

Beyond the foodie scene, festivals and art events are a mainstay of the city. Montpellier plays host to everything from a Mediterranean cinema festival (Cinémed) to Argentinian tango and French comedy festivals (Printemps des Comédiens). In between, you’ll find classical dance celebrations, book fairs, and theatre productions. The city counts eight theatres in total and two opera houses.

If you need to take a breather from city-living, just hop on the navette des plages (beach shuttle) that operate in the summer and gives you a direct line to the calming waves of the Mediterranean Sea.

For sports enthusiasts, Montpellier has an impressive number of competitive teams. Soccer, rugby, American football, baseball, boxing, and volleyball are only a handful of the professional organizations that make the city their home.

Cost of Living in Montpellier, France


Daily costs for Montpellier differ little from other, larger French cities. A typical lunch out can start as low as $20, per person, if you choose a simple a fixed menu—a starter plus a main dish or a dessert—at a local neighborhood bistro. Budget eateries, as well as Michelin-star restaurants, are available throughout the city.

The real value-for-money comes from real estate offerings. Since Montpellier has seen steady growth over the last few decades, there is a dearth of rental and ownership possibilities. New constructions are available for pre-purchase, and Montpellier, with its surrounding communities, remains one of the best real estate investment areas in France.

If you’re leaning toward the rental market, you can find a furnished, two-bedroom, one-bathroom, 850-square-foot apartment starting at $1,180, with prices climbing to around $1,746 for an apartment in a gated building with a pool.

Owning an apartment can be one of the best moves when looking at the Montpellier area. French residents have hopped on the investment bandwagon, but there are still many great deals to be made on purchases within the city. A modern two-bedroom, one-bathroom, 850-square-foot apartment with a 140-square-foot balcony start at $205,000.

With a bit of a larger budget, you can get a 915-square-foot apartment (two-bedroom, one-bathroom) in a stone building that opens up to a 150-square-foot garden terrace. The price comes in at $295,000.

As transportation is cheap and well-maintained, it’s a wise idea to explore some of the local village communities if you’re looking to purchase a home. In the charming village of Saussan, to the west of Montpellier, you’ll find a two-bedroom, one-bathroom, 1,345-square-foot home (on two levels) for $260,000.

Here are a few examples of basic monthly costs for a couple living in Montpellier:

ExpenseU.S. $
Rent$1,180 to $1,746
Groceries$475
Cable TV$30
Internet$45
Water$40
Electricity$90
Phone$50
Entertainment/Eating out$350
Transportation$55
Healthcare$170
Monthly Total$2,485 to $3,051

5 Things to Do in Montpellier, France


The southern French city of Montpellier might be one of France’s largest, but that does not mean that it feels hurried—or even soulless.

Situated about eight miles from the Mediterranean Sea and sandy beaches, Montpellier is characterized by its pleasant climate, elegant stone buildings, multicultural communities, and a joie de vivre. It’s a place where locals pause to play a game of pétanque under a centuries-old aqueduct, read a book in a park, or chat with friends in a sun-drenched café.

Montpellier has a long history with origins dating back to the 10th century. A few centuries later, one of Europe’s oldest medical schools was founded in the city. It welcomed individuals from all backgrounds and religions to come to teach at the school.

As time went on, Montpellier became a wealthy port city, thanks to the region’s tradition of wine production. Today, the city is home to several universities, which lend Montpellier a youthful energy.

There are many things to do in Montpellier. From strolls in the city’s eclectic historic district, to an afternoon spent in Montpellier’s botanical gardens, here are five experiences worth considering.


1. Stroll through the Place Royale du Peyrou


Montpellier’s Place Royale du Peyrou features an esplanade lined with trees, an attractive water tower, and monuments dedicated to Louis XIV, France’s “Sun King.” This regal square is also a favorite spot among Montpellier’s locals, who flock here to walk their dogs or read a book.

A statue of Louis XIV on horseback dominates the center of the Place du Peyrou’s esplanade. From the horse’s teeth to the king’s garments, this bronze work of art features a great amount of detail. Nearby is the golden Arc de Triomphe, which was also dedicated to Louis XIV. This triumphal arch was built in the 17th century.

The views from the Place du Peyrou are blissfully unobstructed by neighboring buildings, thanks to restrictions put into place in the 1770s by Louis XVI. This forward-thinking ordinance protects the park’s beautiful panoramas to this day.

On the western end of the Place du Peyrou is an ornate water tower called the Château d’Eau. Water from the nearby Saint-Clément Aqueduct once flowed here. If you peek over the park’s outer walls, you can see this two-tiered aqueduct. It towers over Montpellier’s Arceaux neighborhood and was built in the 18th century. At nighttime, the aqueduct is dramatically illuminated by blue spotlights.

Before we got to the Place du Peyrou, my husband, Shawn, and I purchased a baguette, some chèvre (goat’s cheese), and fruit. While we savored our picnic inside the park, we did a bit of people-watching. We spotted sunseekers, fellow picnickers—even a father teaching his son how to ride a bike. That relaxed hour or two ended up being one of our Montpellier highlights.

There is no cost to enter the Place Royale du Peyrou.


2. Explore the Écusson, Montpellier’s historic center


Montpellier’s historic center is called the Écusson. Narrow streets, cozy squares, and weathered fountains characterize this atmospheric part of town. Since this area is largely pedestrianized, it is a relaxing place to explore on foot.

You’ll find cafés, restaurants, boutiques, and 17th to 19th-century mansions called hôtels particuliers. If you’d like to visit the interior of these grand structures, contact the tourist office, which organizes guided tours.

Some of the Écusson has yet to be restored, which adds to the area’s charm. As a result, you’ll see shutters awaiting a fresh coat of paint, as well as bricked-in windows, with only their tracery still visible.


3. Discover incredible greenery at the Jardin des Plantes


The Jardin des Plantes is France’s oldest botanical garden and is also a tranquil place to while away a few hours. Founded in 1593, the garden was created to further the study of medicinal plants. For a time, it served as a model for other botanical gardens throughout France.


Managed by the University of Montpellier, the botanical gardens feature more than 2,500 plant species. You’ll see a great variety of palms, terraced gardens studded with flowers, medicinal plants, and even a bamboo forest. There is also a magnificent greenhouse filled with cactus plants from around the world. All shapes and sizes of this prickly plant are represented, with some bearing pink, yellow, and red blooms.

Elsewhere in the botanical gardens, you’ll find a pond filled with fish, frogs, and water lotus plants—delighting visitors of all ages. Fluffy cats lounge nearby, soaking up the sunshine. These feral cats live in on-site shelters and have been sterilized. After the procedure, they are returned to the park in order to help deter rodents.

Inside the Jardin des Plantes, you’re bound to catch glimpses of people relaxing on stone benches, having a picnic, or simply taking a moment to ponder life under the shade of a mature tree. Many of the plants and trees are labeled with the species’ name and place of origin, making a visit to the botanical gardens both relaxing and educational. There is no fee to enter the Jardin des Plantes.


4. Visit Montpellier’s markets


If you are a fan of markets, you’ll be delighted to learn that Montpellier has a great variety. Some of these markets are housed in dedicated market halls while others take place outside. In addition, there are themed markets devoted to everything from antiques and books to plants and flowers.

Montpellier’s historic center has two covered market buildings—the Halles Laissac and the Halles Castellane. The Halles Laissac is housed in a modern building that was opened in 2018. Underneath the red, yellow, and green dome, you’ll find stands brimming with fresh seafood, colorful produce, olives, and a superb variety of cheese. It is even possible to purchase items and have them prepared on-site so that you can enjoy them there.

The city’s markets take place on different days of the week, so consult the schedules at the tourist office.


5. Soak up culture and history


Established more than 1,000 years ago, Montpellier is brimming with culture and history.

The Fabre Museum (Musée Fabre) is one of Montpellier’s most-esteemed attractions. Home to one of the country’s best fine art collections, the museum houses paintings, sculptures, and drawings from the 14th to 21st centuries. Monet, Rubens, Degas, and Brueghel are represented in the collection, and there are also pieces created by accomplished artists from around the region. Tickets cost around $9  Euros.

Montpellier’s most well-known church is the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre. The Gothic building’s exterior columns are massive in scale and look as though they belong on a fortress. This structure was originally a 14th-century church that was part of a monastery. A few centuries later, it was transformed into a cathedral. Saint-Pierre was damaged during the Wars of Religion, which led to parts of the structure being rebuilt. It is free to enter.

Located next to the cathedral is Montpellier’s Faculty of Medicine. Inside is the Anatomy Conservatory, which houses more than 5,000 anatomical parts and models. The conservatory was created for teaching purposes and is open upon request.

Montpellier has two opera houses—the more contemporary Berlioz (which was built in 1990), and the Opéra Comédie. The 19th-century Opéra Comédie features a magnificent interior that’s rich with gilding and red accents. Both venues host regular musical performances.

The city has several annual cultural events, including the International Guitar Festival, Festival de Radio France et Montpellier (which features opera, classical music, and jazz), and Cinémed, the International Mediterranean Film Festival.


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Sunday 7 February 2021

Places to Vacation in Panama

 By Jessica Ramesch | gls55 holdings ltd | February 7, 2021


After 11 years of covering this country for International Living, you’d think writing about the best places to vacation in Panama would be a cinch. The more you know, the easier it should be…but the opposite is often the case. I know so many great Panama vacation destinations that it’s hard to narrow it down to just a few.

There are places like the jungles of the Darien that appeal to adventure seekers, and places like Isla Contadora that offer eco-tourists in Panama a bit of luxury in a green environment. And then there are the must-sees…vacation spots in Panama that no traveler should miss. Here are three destinations that represent three different “faces” of Panama.

The Best Places to Vacation in Panama: The Islands


At the top of the list are the islands of Guna Yala, formerly known as the San Blas islands. Here, the Guna (formerly spelled “Kuna”) live much the way they did when the Americas were first “discovered.” The Guna have their own autonomous government and they are diligent about protecting their reserve lands, allowing only low-impact, sustainable tourism. You won’t find any big-name resorts here—only eco-friendly huts and small hostels.

There are more options than ever these days, but I would go with Yandup Island Lodge. The island is close to the Ukupseni community, which many agree is one of the region’s most beautiful. Beware, first-time visitors feel like they’re dreaming when they see the baby-blue waters dotted with itty-bitty islands. White sand beaches are everywhere you look and you can swim from one to another. The only way to get here is by air on a small plane. Visit Air Panama to check out flights to the Playon Chico airstrip.

Remember, you’ll be in traditional dwellings (typically with mosquito netting over beds) no matter where you stay in Guna Yala. Don’t expect air conditioning and don’t “bug out” if there are a few bugs. Bring eco-friendly mosquito repellent and sunscreen and you’ll be all set to enjoy the famous baby-blue waters of the Caribbean.

Highland Vacations in Panama’s Boquete Region

Once you’ve had your fill of the beach, consider a visit to the little mountain town of Boquete and neighboring towns like Volcan. You can get there via a seven-hour drive from Panama City, but I prefer to fly an hour to David City and take a bus or rental car from there.

It’s a 40-minute drive from David to highland towns like Boquete and Volcan. In Boquete, be sure to visit The Rock, the best restaurant I’ve been to in years (the views are jaw-dropping). Head to Volcan or Cerro Punta for strawberries and a thick, goopy cream called nata, or fresh mixed berry milkshakes…there are multiple stands but Dulces Caseros Alina’s is the best-known. Just ask any local where to find it!

There’s so much to see in this area, you’ll have trouble choosing. You can visit ancient petroglyphs at El Nancito Archeological Park, see thoroughbreds at the famous Haras Cerro Punta horse farm, or hike through the bi-national La Amistad forest (or to the top of the 11,000-foot Baru volcano).

Panama City: My Top Pick

Believe it or not, Panama City is my top pick for the best places to vacation in Panama. I can’t help being biased—I choose to live here and absolutely love it. Just head to the picturesque promenade that is the Cinta Costera and you’ll see why. The Cinta wends its way along Panama Bay, offering snap-worthy views of the sparkling city skyline. You can walk from the Banking District to colonial Casco Viejo and see some of the city’s best features along the way.

For a great weekend in Panama City, here’s what I recommend: rent a beautifully restored colonial apartment in Panama City’s historic quarter, Casco Viejo (Airbnb has several inexpensive listings). Spend a day or two exploring the stately plazas and enjoying the cool food and nightspot scene.

In Casco, Plaza Bolivar is my favorite spot to people-watch…it’s lined with cafés and the site of the famous Salon Bolivar, where Simon Bolivar tried to create a league of nations and thus unify the region.

On any given evening in Casco Viejo you’ll find venues offering live jazz, salsa, classic rock, and more (make sure to take in a gig at Danilo’s Jazz Club, at the elegantly restored American Trade Hotel).

Panama’s art community is centered in Casco and events here vary from film screenings to “artblock” parties that continue from one block to the next. The dress is typically casual or bohemian chic. Restaurants run the gamut, from gourmet places like Tomillo to neighborhood dives (my favorite is microbrew pub Rana Dorada de Casco Viejo).

Naturally, you’ll want to see the Panama Canal while you’re in town. The Miraflores Visitor Center is just a 20-minute drive from Casco. Or for a nice day trip, drive 10 minutes to the Amador area and catch a ferry to Taboga Island. It’s just 12 nautical miles offshore…perfect for a quick beach fix. When you get back, take a quick shower and get ready for another great night in the city.

Plenty of Panama City’s neighborhoods are walkable, including Casco Viejo and El Cangrejo. For longer distances, you have the Panama City Metro and Metrobus system, a vast cadre of yellow cabs, and more upscale services like Uber and Tuchofer, so there’s no excuse to stay in your hotel room.

Go hiking or birding around Gamboa. Rub shoulders with friendly and beautiful people at trendy downtown bars. Try new and exciting foods. The point is, it’s a convenient, modern city offering a huge range of activities…so just get out there and explore!



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Thursday 7 January 2021

Airfare and what to explore of the old world in laidback Portugal

By Tricia Pimental | gls55 holdings ltd


When you imagine old Europe—those cobblestone alleys, medieval town walls, crenelated castles on hilltops, all soundtracked by the toll of church bells … Portugal delivers. Not in a touristy, contrived way, but as the standard day-to-day life of the country. It exudes history, beauty, and slow-paced living that is—by any standard other than financial—rich. (Although you needn’t be rich to enjoy it. Ex-pats report that their expenses here run to about one-third of what they were in the States.)

Quietly friendly, emphatically old-fashioned, and highly conscious of their illustrious history, the people of Portugal are what makes the country such a magical destination to retire to. It would be misleading to think that modernity has bypassed Portugal—it’s infrastructure, education system, and healthcare are as advanced as you’ll find anywhere—but the fast-paced rat race that seems standard in North America feels very much an optional lifestyle choice and not a hugely popular one at that.

Rocky, rugged Atlantic coasts where salt spray mists the air…green hills and winding country roads…medieval towns perched above deep river gorges…graceful cities of broad boulevards and bustling cafés…

Portugal, continental Europe’s westernmost country, lies quietly in the shadow of the larger, more boisterous Spain. With a sliver of coastline and an interior that can take you back centuries in time, Portugal in many ways still belongs to an earlier era. People are friendly and courteous, with an almost courtly manner. Family and friends are important, and people know their neighbors and the local shopkeepers. Ancient buildings look worn and lived-in, and quiet, cobbled lanes wind through seaside villages.

This is Europe as it used to be. And though modernity is overtaking Portugal quickly, you can still enjoy an old-style, Old-World life here.

Though its coast is the Atlantic, Portugal is typically Mediterranean, with the warm weather and lifestyle that you tend to find in Mediterranean countries. The sea, which forms the country’s western border, still plays a strong role in Portuguese life and diet: You’ll find fish and seafood on menus throughout the country.



Like countries around the Mediterranean, Portugal also produces good food, wine, and olive oil, at inexpensive prices. Try its slightly fizzy vinho verde or its port, the fortified wine that took its name from Portugal’s second city, Porto. Shop in modern supermarkets, or—as many Portuguese do—in the traditional markets found in cities throughout the country.

Overall, Portugal is arguably Western Europe’s most affordable country. Even in the capital, Lisbon—one of Europe’s most charming and underrated cities—a couple can live comfortably from about $2,200 a month in residential neighborhoods just a half-hour’s walk from Lisbon’s central, most tourist-driven areas. (And you’ll leave the tourists behind.) In Portugal’s smaller cities and in the country’s interior, a couple’s budget can run from $1,700 a month.

Enjoy all this…and yet have First-World amenities at hand, including road and highway systems, good telecommunications and high-speed internet, museums and concert halls, chic restaurants, cafés, bars, and much more. Portugal has extensive bus and metro services in cities like Lisbon and Porto. Long-distance bus and train services carry you throughout Portugal and beyond, so you don’t need a car here. And modern airports can take you throughout Europe.

Pros and Cons of Living in Portugal


“No legacy is so rich as honesty,” wrote William Shakespeare. I agree. So I’m going to be straight with you. What’s the real story of Portugal? Is it as great as people say? Does the sunshine every day? Is it safe?

I’ve lived in Portugal for six years, in the north near Braga, the central region outside of the university town of Coimbra, and close to the capital of Lisbon. Here’s what I’ve learned.

Climate




Pros: Portugal’s climate is a warm, temperate, moist, forest climate with wet winters and dry summers. The average temperature is 71.6 F. You can drive this compact country from north to south in about five and a half hours. A road trip from west to east, from Lisbon to the Spanish border, takes less than half that time. Obviously, there’s not a great variation in climate.

Lisbon is popular with tourists not only because of its cultural offerings, cafés, restaurants, and physical beauty, but also its weather. Winter months bring about 10 days of rain and daytime temperatures of 50 F or higher, while in the summertime, wet days average from none to one or two, and the mercury hovers around 85 F.

Cons: In the north, winter means rain about half the time, and temperatures run about 10 degrees cooler year-round than farther south. Shorelines can be extremely windy. When we lived in Esposende, we were painfully aware of why it’s a kite-surfing mecca. The same applies to going down the coast, to the surfing destination of Nazaré, where a record was recently set with a 100-foot wave. Farther south, when we lived northwest of Lisbon and six miles from the beach, we needed a back-up plan when entertaining outdoors. Gusts would carry paper plates, plastic cups, and the occasional small dog upward in true Wizard of Oz fashion.

Earthquakes. More common on the islands of the Azores, they do occasionally occur on the mainland. The Great Quake of 1755 devastated Lisbon, of course. But if you’ve lived in Southern California as I have, most likely you won’t find it an area of concern.

Cost of Living


Pros: Ex-pats typically find their expenses in Portugal run about one-third of what they were in the States. While the exchange rate is not as favorable as it was when we first moved here, we still live a comfortable, although not extravagant, lifestyle for about $2,500 a month. If you choose to live in Porto in the north, Lisbon, or in the ex-pat havens of Cascais or the Algarve, you probably want to bump that up to $3,000. You can, however, keep that lower figure simply by moving 20 minutes away from a city center. Enjoy urban amenities, then head back to the ‘burbs and lower rent.

Cons: Electricity, gasoline, automobiles, and large appliances like washers and dryers are more expensive here than in the U.S. Tolls on the autostrada add up, too.

Safety and Security




Pros: The Global Peace Index rates 163 nations and has named Portugal the third safest country in the world. Gun ownership is permitted only for hunters and sportsmen, not for personal protection. The locals are peaceable people who seek to avoid conflict and just live their lives with family and friends. And eat fish and drink wine, of course.

Cons: Petty crimes of opportunity, mostly in large cities, exist everywhere. Portugal is no exception.

Medical Care


Pros: Professional, public, and private healthcare are available in clinics and hospitals throughout Portugal. Private insurance averages $46 per person monthly. We pay $40 a year per person for insurance entitling us to half-price doctor visits, and either uses public healthcare or pay discounted prices in the private system. The cost per person for catastrophic insurance is $90 per month.

Cons: Scheduled for surgery in the public system? Be prepared to wait for months for availability.

Proximity to the U. S.


Pros:
 Portugal offers three international airports servicing many airlines. Plan ahead and you could snare a nonstop, seven-hour, roundtrip economy airfare from JFK to Lisbon for less than $700.

Cons: Everyone wants to visit. If they’re coming from any distance they’ll want to stay long enough to make the trip worthwhile, so be prepared. Also, have varied tourist itineraries under your belt so you don’t begin to feel you’re a resident of all the palaces and castles you’ll invariably be showing them.

Activities and Recreation




Pros: With half the country coastline, there’s ample opportunity to enjoy surfing, snorkeling, boating, wind-surfing, and more. Landlubbers may opt for golf, tennis, horseback riding, hiking, and biking, or exploring Roman ruins...

Not so much for the outdoors? Head to the country’s marvelous museums, like the Tile Museum in Lisbon, or go shopping on the pedestrian walkway, Rua Catarina, in Porto, and quaff a beverage at the Belle Époque Café Majestic.

Cons: Let me think… Sorry, nothing comes to mind.




Tuesday 13 October 2020

7 Reasons Why You Should Consider Turkey

 


By Debra Buhring







If you’re looking for the quintessential Mediterranean lifestyle at a fraction of the price, look no further, Turkey checks all the boxes.

Whatever your heart desires, trans-continental Turkey, straddling southeastern Europe and western Asia, is guaranteed to please. It has cosmopolitan, vibrant cities, like its capital Istanbul. There are idyllic coastal Mediterranean villages, like Kaş, with pristine turquoise waters and multi-layered sunsets dotting the expansive coastline. Charming Aegean towns with deep blue waters, like Çeşme, and jet-setting yacht venues like Bodrum, complete with a stunning castle on the Mediterranean Sea, vie for sailors’ attention.

There are mountain ranges rising from all four directions, including the verdant green valleys of Olympus and the Taurus Mountains, offering endless hiking trails immersed in natural preserves. Fragrant lavender fields in Isparta, rival Provence, interspersed with rose and cherry blossom season.

History comes alive in Turkey with over a dozen UNESCO-recognized heritage sites, as well as UNESCO-designated cities of gastronomy, like Gaziantep (one of the oldest cities in the world), famous for its conglomeration of multi-cultural cuisines. That’s not to mention the world-renowned hospitality from the Turks, genuinely interested in sharing their beloved country with visitors.

Although Turkey is predominantly Muslim, it is a secular country, where religion and government are separated. In fact, Turkey has many Christian pilgrimage sites, including Ephesus, where the Virgin Mary spent her last years and where Saint Paul performed baptisms. A mosaic of civilizations and cultures, including the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires, Turkey has something to intrigue everyone.

Interested in learning more about Turkey? Here are some of the top reasons you should consider it for your retirement destination.

1. Cost of Living





The exchange rate between the U.S. dollar and the Turkish lira makes it easy to retire here on your Social Security. Furnished, one-bedroom apartments in the center of coastal towns with panoramic Mediterranean Sea views can be found for $250 a month. Push your budget to $500 a month and you’ll get a three-bedroom property, that figure also includes most utilities.

When it comes to eating out, a filling dinner of shish kebabs, including rice, vegetables, and fries averages $6. A wealth of freshly prepared mezes, or starters, typically costing less than $2 each, can easily make a meal while exposing you to a wide array of new dishes. Meals here are often accompanied by complementary offerings, such as olives, bread, and classic Mediterranean dips, as part of the ingrained Turkish hospitality.

A daily trip to the produce store or the frequent farmers’ markets costs a few dollars. A liter of earthy green extra virgin olive oil costs about $3 and a dozen of the freshest free-range eggs less than $2.

Regional transportation is cheap with flights to destinations in Europe often costing less than $40 and hours-long bus trips $5, making exploration inexpensive. A full spa treatment, including a one-hour deep-tissue massage, and the full spa “hammam” experience, including a foaming cleanse and exfoliation, costs about $30, including tip. A haircut at a salon, including a glorious head massage, is about $5.

2. Ease of Residency





As a general rule, U.S. citizens can only stay in most European countries, as a group, for 90 days out of every 180-day period. In Turkey, however, one can obtain a renewable, one- or two-year residence permit relatively easily.

To obtain a residence permit, you submit an application online and provide evidence of lodging for the duration of the requested permit. If you’re staying in a rental, a notarized copy of the lease is required. Minimal health insurance is also required for the duration of the permit—mine cost $75 for the year. You must be able to show proof of sufficient funds to provide for yourself during the duration of your stay and obtain a tax number.

My original application and later renewal required me to attend an in-person interview but it was very straightforward and my renewal granting me a two-year extension took less than 10 minutes. I had to pay fees of just under $200 each time.

3. Natural Beauty






Turkey easily rivals any country for its sheer natural beauty, ranging from acres of unspoiled, verdant green mountains and valleys to miles of pristine coastline. The diverse topography and elevated plateaus provide stunning and unique vistas throughout the country.

Turkey is lapped by four seas—the Mediterranean, Aegean and Black Seas, and the Sea of Marmara—and has mountain ranges paralleling the approximate 5,000 miles of coastline. The color contrasts among the crystal clear turquoise, jade, and sapphire-infused sea, the forest-blanketed emerald green valleys and mountains, and the stark white cliffs provide staggering beauty. The abundance of vegetation lends pops of color from silvery-green olive groves, ruby red pomegranate bushes, fields of lemon and orange trees, and carpets of sun-bronzed tomatoes.

4. History and Architecture




Turkey is referred to as the world’s largest museum—and with good reason. There is a treasure trove of sites for historical, architectural, and archaeological buffs, including many UNESCO world heritage sites. You can walk in the footsteps of mythological and factual characters, including Alexander the Great, Helen of Troy, and St. Nicholas (aka Santa Claus). Istanbul alone has a wealth of architectural wonders, including the grand and ornate “Blue Mosque” named for its blue tiles inside; Hagia Sofia and Topkapi Palace, the grandiose residence of sultans of the Ottoman Empire, complete with a harem.

The town of Ephesus has some of the best-preserved Greek and Roman ruins; there is the archaeological site of Troy, the supposed site of the Trojan Wars; and the fascinating fairytale-like village of Cappadocia with underground cities.

5. Climate





Turkey enjoys a temperate climate. It is a year-round destination with coastal towns bordering the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas enjoying hot summers and mild winters.

The western and southern coastal towns of Turkey enjoy a mild Mediterranean climate, averaging about 48 F in winter and 84 F in the summer. Istanbul and the coast around the Sea of Marmara have moderate climates averaging 39 F in the winter and 80 F in the summer. The interior of Turkey experiences cold, snowy winters and hot, dry summers with temperatures generally cooler at night.

6. Cuisine






Turkish cuisine intrigues with its exotic offerings while representing the best of the Mediterranean diet, revered for its health benefits. Mainstays of the cuisine include grilled meats and seafood, a plethora of vegetables, lots of yogurt-based dishes, an array of health-promoting and delectable herbs and spices, dried fruits, and nuts, and extra virgin olive oil.

Some of my most memorable dining experiences in Turkey have been in the cosmopolitan capital of Istanbul. Two of my favorite places to eat (not only in Turkey but in the world), are Hamdi and Omar in the historical center of Sultanahmet.

Hamdi is conveniently located adjacent to the bustling spice bazaar and enjoys a spectacular panoramic view over the historical center, the Bosphorous Sea, and the Golden Horn from its rooftop floor with an outdoor terrace. Service here is attentive and fast-paced. The proprietor, Hamdi, started out selling kebabs in the 1960s from a street cart and ended up with one of the most-beloved Istanbul restaurants, attesting to the popularity of his shish kebabs. Although Hamdi is most famous for its kebabs, they also have an impressive array of “lahmacun”, a very thin-crust, cheeseless pizza, and I generally opt for one with perfectly-spiced minced lamb and chopped pistachios, completed with a drizzle of addictive, sticky, luscious pomegranate glaze.

This culinary artistic beauty is complete with a side of a spicy tomato salad, “acılı ezme” (a perfect combination of sweet, spicy, and acidic with fresh, finely-chopped tomatoes, herbs, and olive oil, the trademark spiciness provided by homemade hot red pepper paste), perfectly complemented by a cooling side of haydari (a garlicky yogurt-based dip with mint, olive oil, and lemon). Simple foodie perfection, characteristic of Mediterranean offerings.

Dining at Hamdi is particularly captivating at night with the Bosphorous Bridge colorfully illuminated, twinkling lights on the landmark buildings, and brilliant stars piercing the inky jet blue sky as the backdrop to this picture-perfect scene. Reservations are a must to secure terrace seating or indoor seating with a panoramic view.

Omar is a favorite not only for its consistently excellent traditional food but also for its breath-taking view from its rooftop terrace. The interior is decorated with a kaleidoscope of colored mosaic lamps cascading from the ceiling, creating an intimate glow and casting a rainbow of shadows along the walls. What really steals the show and my heart here, however, is the incomparable view of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks, the stunning architectural wonder that is Hagia Sofia and the sprawling “Blue Mosque”. My most memorable visits have been in spring when there is a vibrant carpet of tulips (Turkey’s trademark flowers), between these two magnificent structures. The experience of enjoying front row seats overlooking the bustle of Istanbul’s famous square is enhanced if one is fortunate enough to hear the piercing, melodic call to prayer, a gentle reminder to pause and be grateful for one’s blessings, regardless of one’s religious affiliation or non-affiliation.

It never ceases to amaze me what a memorable evening I can have in this cosmopolitan touristic capital at such a value. Prices are generally comparable to other cities in Turkey, with mezes costing approximately $3 to $5 and entrees generally ranging between $10 to $15. Stunning vistas included.

7. Hospitality





Turks are justly revered for their hospitality. This is a country where tolerance and civility reign. It is the only Muslim country that is secular and the only country straddling both Europe and Asia. It is a meld of cultures, where differences are not only respected but also are what makes the country so diverse. Tourism is a huge part of the Turkish economy and foreigners are welcomed with open arms and appreciation.

There is something for everyone in Turkey. A Mediterranean lifestyle that dreams are made of can be yours too at an absolute bargain of a price.









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